In their natural habitat these plants like an acid to neutral soil. ( pH of 6 to 6.5 is fine)
Their long flowering season and colour range, make them excellent subjects for containers, rock gardens or an alpine house.
Although quite hardy, they dislike the wet and cold of the UK winter months, so it is advantageous to pot them up after flowering and give them the protection of a cold greenhouse or cold frame until the following spring.
If kept dry, they can withstand temperatures of -12 C, if not more.
If grown in containers on the patio, subject to the size of these containers, the entire container and its contents can be placed under cover for protection, then brought out again when conditions allow.
Don't leave plants on top of the bench in a glasshouse during their dormant period!
Winter sun can raise temperature under glass to a degree where the corms may desiccate.
Containerised plants require plenty of moisture during the growing season, however, water applications should be reduced as the leaves start to die down in August to October.
Remove the dried leaves as they die down.
Sow fresh seed as it becomes available and / or prick out self-sown seedlings.
Rhodohypoxis are generally trouble free in respect of attack from pests and diseases.
Circa week 10: Repot plants where necessary but be careful with the watering if temperatures are still quite low.
If required, divide the clumps every two to three years and pot up the divisions into suitably sized pots.
Alternatively divide them around Week 39.
Week 35: If growing outdoors in the border/rockery, plant the corms 50mm (2") deep in a sunny spot, in peaty soil with added sand and grit for drainage.
Apply a top dressing of a mixture of leaf mould, coarse sand and lime free loam with a little added bonemeal prior to re-planting.
Keep them weed free and well watered during the growing season.
Regular dead-heading of spent flowers helps to improve flowering performance.