Garden maintenance is usually an ongoing task all the year round however, there are somethings that need doing at particular times of the year, listed below are a few mind joggers with suggested times as and when to carry them out.
Any other tasks should be carried out as and when you have the time.
Check over fence posts and panels for signs of loosening or damage and replace/repair as necessary.
Treat timber fences with a preservative.
Similarly check timber outbuildings for signs of damage and treat accordingly.
Over the next few weeks check over paths, drives and patio surfaces for signs of serious damage caused by winter weather, repair damage as necessary.
Clean stains and algae from paving and other hard surfaces with a chemical path and patio cleaner, alternatively use a pressure sprayer.
Similarly clear paths, drives, bark chip surfaces of weeds, either by hand, or by applying chemicals.
When applying weed-killers near edges of paths and drives, take care not to over spray chemicals on to lawn or borders, use a deflector sheet to keep chemicals within bounds.
Treat wooden tables and chairs with furniture oil.
Kill off moss and algal slime on paths and garden steps with chemical path and patio cleaner to prevent them becoming dangerously slippery in moist autumn weather.
As plants become dormant get on with any urgent repair and replacement jobs on walls and fences.
Check that fence panels are in good condition before winter sets in.
Before treatment, check that the panels are sound, any wind loosened slats should be gently but firmly hammered back into place.
Rub down the wood to remove lichen and any mould growth.
Apply a thick coat of wood preservative.
Water-based preservatives don't last as long as oil-based ones such as Creosote, but they are not harmful to plants, whereas Creosote is, so if Creosote is used, it must be kept away from plants in leaf.
This can be done by draping plastic sheet over plants prior to painting.
Raspberries, blackberries and hybrid berries require support, so it is best to have such support in place before planting out to avoid the risk of damaging young plants.
Excavate holes 0.5metre (18") deep and approx. 3m (10ft) apart and concrete in 2400mm (8ft) 75 x 75mm (3”x3”) treated fencing posts.
After the concrete has set, stretch heavy-gauge wires between the posts at 600mm, 1 metre and 1.5 metres (2ft, 3ft and 5ft) above the ground.
Erect temporary windbreaks for newly planted shrub.
Hammer 50x50mm (2”x2”) stakes in place so that at least 200mm (8”) is in the soil.
Staple or tack small-mesh netting on the windward side, either as a straight screen or three or four-sided shelter.
Continue clearing ground of spent crops and rough dig as weather and soil conditions allow.
Where organic materials like garden compost or manure are in limited supply, remember it's better to concentrate on one section of the plot rather than spread it thinly.