Clivia miniata


 

Common name Kaffir lily.


Clivia due to their tenderness are generally grown as 'houseplants' or in a spot that never goes below 5°C(40°F)

Although classified as an 'evergreen perennial' the 60cm (24")long strap shaped dark green glossy leaves actually replace themselves every year.

Usually the new leaves appear in summer and are replaced by an equal number in Autumn / Winter.


As with many dark green leafed plants they are best kept in bright but indirect light, avoid direct sunlight.

Similarly avoid growing them near central heating radiators or any other high heated sources.

During the winter months (Nov- Feb) keep plants at a temperature of around 10°C (50°F)

Plants grow to a height of 40-60cm (15"-24") and spread to around 30-40cm (12"-15").


Circa Week 8:

Start a watering / feeding regime by lightly watering and feeding the plant/s with a balanced fertiliser weekly until the flower buds appear.

Once the buds appear move the plant/s to a well lit area where a temperature of around 16°C (60°F) can be maintained.

Budded Plant

Flowering usually occurs from March to August subject to growing conditions.

The flower stems are quite stout and rarely need any support to carry the umbels of 10 + orange to red flowers.


After flowering, remove spent flower stems* by cutting the flower stems from as near the base of the plant/s as possible.

* If you plan on saving seed leave this task until such times as the seed heads have ripened then cut off the stems as described above.

Hand pollinating the flowers will improve the viabilty of the collected seed.

Plant in flower

Harvest seed from the berries when they turn red and sow immediately.(Do not allow the seeds to dry out)

Once the stems have been cut down reduce the watering regime to just sufficient watering to prevent the plant/s drying out throughout the winter.

Plants will grow on undisturbed for several years,and will only need an annual top dressing of new potting compost which can be done when the watering / feeding phase commences.


Aftercare:


Repotting:


When repotting is necessary,carry this out circa Week 8-10 by potting up into a slightly larger container.

Pot up into any good well-drained potting compost (Ji2 equivalent)

Do not plant too deeply – the neck of the bulb should finish up just above soil level.

Clivia flower best when well established in 20-30cm (8"-12") diameter containers.

When they have outgrown this size of pot consider splitting the plants.


Pruning:


Apart from deadheading, and cutting down after flowering no pruning is required.


Propagation


Clivias can be propagated by division after flowering or from seed.


Division


When the plant/s becomes pot bound knock the plant/s and wash the old soil from the roots, taking care not to damage the roots.

Initially try to divide the plant/s by pulling the roots and or offsets apart rather than cutting them as this will do less damage to the root system.

Place each section into a suitable sized pot for the size of the division, and water well.

Potted up Divisions

Keep the divisions in a well lit area (but not in direct sunlight) and maintain a temperature of around 16°C (60°F)

Subject to conditions lightly mist the plants daily until the cuttings become established.

Seed

Sow the seeds individually into 70c (3") plant pots* or a cell tray insert of a similar size.

* Use any good potting compost

Place the seeds individually into the pot / cell and lightly cover with seived compost.

Seeds should germinate in 6-8 weeks at a temperature of 21°C (70°F)

When the first leaves appear pot the seedling on into 12cm (5") pots of potting compost (Ji2 equivalent)

Seedlings can take upto five years to flower.


Pests & Diseases:


Clivia are generally trouble-free, and generally suffer from only a few pests and diseases.


Mealybugs:


These are soft-bodied, greyish-white, wingless insects recognised by the white, waxy filaments trailing from their bodies.

Certain species, will reproduce in indoor all the year-round.

Mealybugs

Non-flowering:


This can be due to:

Plants being potted into larger sized containers too soon.

Plants being kept at too high temperatures during winter.

Poor watering can lead to flower buds failing to develop, and dieback of foliage tips.


Foliage problems:


Yellowing may be due to:

Inadequate feeding and / or Overwatering

Overwatering can lead to waterlogging.

To remedy this knock the plant out of its container,remove any dead or rotten roots.

Replace the sodden compost with new.


Dwarfing:


Short stalks and / or the blooms are hidden by foliage, is likely to be an insufficient cool period over the winter.

Overwintering the plants at a temperature of 10°C (50°F) can help.

Plant affected by 'Dwarfing'

Scorch:


Brown patches on leaves may be due to sun scorch.

This can occur when light is refracted through windows or water droplets collect on leave surface.



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